Author’s Note: Some of the links on this post may be affiliate links. If you do end up making a purchase through one of them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for the support!
August 1st, 2025: Summerland Camp to Indian Bar Camp (4.6 miles, 1,165 ft elevation gain)
So, this was how my morning started. I got up early and spent the better part of an hour near the lupine meadows as the morning set both Rainier and the sky ablaze with oranges, purples, and pinks. Could this adventure get any better?
Spoiler alert…it could!!!
For the first time since we began the hike, there was no rush to leave camp. We took our time. With only 5 miles to hike today, it was time to take it slow and really enjoy the sights, sounds, and smells of our adventure. We only had two days left, and then poof, before you know, we’d be back to reality.
It took us a while, but we did reluctantly leave Summerland. From the camp, the Wonderland Trail traverses the most rugged and dramatic miles on the Wonderland Trail. Cairns guided us through barren, lifeless terrain and snowfields. Along the way, we passed a glacier-fed, aquamarine tarn that reminded me of the waters I encountered while hiking Havasu Falls. As we inched on, marmots darted in between us on the trail.
Towards Panhandle Gap (the highest point on the Wonderland Trail), there appeared to be two options to get over the final ascent. The higher path was on snow on the side of a steep slope, and the lower path was a scramble up some rocks. Both options had seen signs of use, but the lower option seemed to be the less sketchy of the two, so we decided to opt for that one.
I
went first, I made my center of gravity low to the ground, and took it one step at a time. Once I made it a few steps, I signaled to the guys that it was doable and relatively safe. Kyle followed behind me, and Nick, behind him. After what seemed to be a lifetime, but in reality only a few minutes, we were up over the ridge.
Author’s Note: Hi friends, September 2025 Matthew back again to just say please take care when hiking over/around Panhandle Gap. I think this was the only section of the Wonderland Trail that put some fear into me. Due to its elevation, there are often lingering, deep snowfields, and that final climb could cause some serious harm to even prepared hikers. We crossed this section on an average snow year in early August. We didn’t need microspikes, crampons, or ice axes, but even so, always check with the park service about trail conditions prior to your hike. Anyway, back to the good stuff…
At the high point, I turned around to look where we had come from; the great volcanic Mountain was an ice fortress. Gone were the vibrant meadows; this land belonged to rock and snow.
“HEY!!! TAKE A LOOK AT THIS!!!” Kyle shouted, and so I turned to face the other direction. Snowfields remnants littered the trail and mountainside ahead, holding on for dear life against the summer sun. Green balds speckled with trees rolled on. Far beyond, the prominent Mt. Adams stood alone, just noticeable if you squinted your eyes. To the east, a cloud inversion blanketed the valleys as far as the eye could see. One could spend a lifetime outdoors and not see something so wonderful. I knew, immediately, that it was time for a long break. The weather was cool, but warming up as we sat overlooking the wonder of the Cascades, with not another person in sight.
When we were done, we began the slow march to Indian Bar. The Wonderland Trail traversed the alpine tundra of Ohanapecosh Park. The next few hours consisted of patchy snowfields, furry marmots, meltwater tarns and cascading streams. Along the way, we passed a group of hikers whom we had met earlier on the hike. They were going counterclockwise and were finishing at White River. We briefly exchanged trail reports on the next sections for each other before continuing. There was one final steep scramble atop an open knob.
The glacial amphitheater that surrounded Indian Bar Valley came into view. Dozens of massive waterfalls cascaded off the mountainside into the bowl below. Kyle, Nick, and I then descended steeply down countless wooden steps flanked by wildflowers. The floral scent was stronger here than any other part of the Wonderland Trail so far. It even inspired Kyle to want to create a beer with wildflower notes. I saw Indian Bar’s stone shelter from on high.
The trail briefly entered a forest before bringing us out onto a rocky valley floor. The waters of the Ohanapecosh River crashed nearby. After some terrible route finding on my part, we crossed the bridge above the roaring Wauhaukaupauken Falls to the shelter. When I dropped my pack, I looked at my watch and saw it was only 12:00.
I immediately understood why people say Indian Bar is the best camp of the Wonderland Trail. The stone shelter, built in the 1940s, is filled with wooden bunk beds suspended by chains along the perimeter of the room. It was much larger than the one at Summerland. There is even a fireplace, but it was blocked off during our stay. With fire danger a real problem out west, I completely understood why.
The shelter lies on the west side of the Ohanapecosh River and offers unbelievable views of the entire rock-strewn valley. Tracing upstream toward the river’s origin, the waterfalls we passed earlier look motionless as they cascade down the lava cliffs. Even without Rainier in sight, it was a magnificent view.
Kyle, Nick, and I spent our last full day on the Wonderland Trail, lazily relaxing in the sunshine outside the shelter. We recounted our journey, planned our victory meal, and discussed potential future hikes. Kyle was fully bought in. I’ve added another convert to my hiking cult!!! I hungrily devoured most of my food, leaving only scraps for tomorrow’s It was the perfect way to spend our final night at camp.
As night overtook the land, the sky was a mixture of pinks and blues, with a smattering of stars sparkling in the darkening sky. The valley before me was awash in the cold, melancholic beauty of twilight. Sitting there, watching the sun literally set on my adventure. I was reminded of a quote from one of my favorite authors, George RR Martin.
“I don’t know if this is a matter of artistic influences so much as it is of temperament. But there’s always been something in a twilight that moves me, and a sunset speaks to me in a way that no sunrise ever has.” — George RR Martin from an Infinity Plus Interview. December 2000
85 miles down, 7 to go…
Camp Review
- MLG’s Camp Rating: 12/10
Once again, the Wonderland Trail delivered. On our last night, we stayed at the famed Indian Bar shelter. This one was even nicer than the one at Summerland.
The only downsides were that the privy was all uphill, and it felt like a mile away, but the views while sitting on top of that throne were fantastic. The mosquitoes were kind of annoying, too, but not nearly as bad as Sunrise, and they went away when the temperature dropped.
- Kyle’s Camp Rating: 11/10 (it’s like Summerland’s 10/10 rating, but 1 better)
“The Indian bar valley and shelter will forever be etched into my mind as a top highlight of this trip, truly unforgettable. The valley the cabin is placed in boasts dozens of small waterfalls, feeding a small river that provides a calming backdrop. Patches of dense trees across the landscape remind you just how full of life this park is. And complete with snow capped peaks and slopes that I found fun in discovering familiar imagery in their layout. One such snow-slopped patch was literally a human playing disc golf. The easily accessible stream below our high-perched cabin was the same fresh and cold snow melt we’d been drinking all trip. What a treat. We spent hours just staring at the scenery, trying to find words to describe just how powerful it felt. To end the night, we laid on our raised hanging beds with that final sweet touch of comfort. What a legendary campsite, and my favorite on the trail.”
- Nick’s Camp Rating: /10
Day 7 Top Highlight
I’m going to say that early morning hiking from Summerland to Panhandle Gap. Going from wildflower meadows to glacial moraines over snow was a new experience for me.
Also, here is a video of one of the many marmots we saw along the way.
Notable Quote(s)
You already got one from one of the greatest authors of his generation. Don’t be greedy.
Previously: Wonderland Trail: Day 6 (Sunrise to Summerland)
Next: Wonderland Trail: Day 8 (Indian Bar to Box Canyon Trailhead…and the end of our adventure)