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July 29th, 2025: Golden Lakes Group Site to Cataract Valley Group Site (16.1 miles, 4,255 ft elv. gain)
Author’s Note: Hi friends, September 2025 Matthew here. I’m traveling back in time to tell you something important!!! If you are lucky enough to have secured a Wonderland Trail permit…DO THE SPRAY PARK ALTERNATE!!! It is one of the most gorgeous areas I’ve ever hiked through. Yes, it adds almost 1,000 feet of elevation gain, and yes it is buggy, but I promise you will not regret it. I have not hiked through Isput Pass, and I’m sure it is great , but I cannot imagine it being better than Spray Park.
I should add that Spray Park is a higher route that passes through snowfields, and is very exposed, so make sure it is safe for the time of year you are hiking. In addition, bad weather can prove dangerous as well, so do some research to make the best decision for you. All things being equal, though, trust me, Spray Park is worth it.
As always, Some of the links on this post may be affiliate links. If you do end up making a purchase through one of them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for the support!
Okay, back to regularly scheduled programming…
Kyle, Nick, and I followed our similar pattern in the morning, waking up at 05:00 and out of camp by 06:30. After a relatively easy day yesterday, things were about to ramp up again. With a 16+ mile day and the Spray Park Alternate coming up, it was going to be one of the most challenging days on the trail.
We began by continuing through the burn zone, gently descending along soft switchbacks. The morning air had a tinge of warmth to it; most mornings had been chilly so far, but I could already tell today was going to be a hot one (at least for West Coast standards). Because we were taking the higher, more exposed Spray Park route, I used my Bivy Stick to get a weather report. The report came back with highs in the low-80s and mostly sunny. Basically, the exact forecast I would hope to see (albeit slightly warmer than I would like).
The trail was gradual and soft, and even though I was still sleepy, the soft, springy tread gave me a literal bounce in my step. Along the way, we encountered some of the biggest trees I’ve ever seen. Western Hemlocks and Red Cedars rose into the sky like skyscrapers. One that had fallen over near the trail was so large, giant stones were embedded within its root system. I couldn’t imagine what squall could’ve felled that behemoth.
At the bottom of the canyon, we heard the South Mowich River before we even saw it. Its silty, fast-moving glacial current was carving its way through the valley. Cairns led us through the myriad of loose rocks and over log crossings. Shortly after, we passed the South Mowich River camp. Continuing along the rocky riverbed, we then crossed the roaring North Mowich River. A sturdy foot-log was in place for this one. As we crossed, a small amount of the river splashed the bridge as we crossed it.
Once across, the trail began climbing for the first time today. The next 4+ miles to the Spray Park Trail junction traversed steep, wooded slopes out of the Mowich River Valley. After 3+ days of these ascents, we were getting used to it. The forest’s thick canopy regulated the temperature as the morning heated up, but I still worked up a good sweat.
At the junction, we chose to take a lunch break at Mowich Lake. As I wrote in my planning post, Mowich Lake is normally one of the 3 main starting points/resupply points for Wonderland Trail hikers. However, because of a bridge closure, that part of the park had been shut off. Resupplying is not allowed, and all roads leading to it are closed. The campsite is still open to stay at (with a valid permit, of course).
A short jaunt took us there. The camp was near the trail, up against the forest. Tents were right next to each other on the gravel in the open. Little shade, and even less privacy, is how I would describe it. I don’t think it would be my first choice. From other trip reports, Mowich Lake is normally packed and full of families. We arrived at noon, and while a few tents were sweltering in the hot sun, it was mostly a ghost town.
Since we arrived at noon, we made the decision to take an hour-long lunch break. We grabbed a few picnic benches in the shade near the backcountry pit toilets. The bathrooms were by far the best we’d seen on trail (not saying much), and we disposed of our trash into bear-resistant garbage cans. While we were eating, Kyle and Nick observed a cougar near the lake. Cougars are very rare, and I have never personally seen one on trail, so I was jealous.
Towards the end of our break, we each took turns heading down to the lake to filter water (probably should have rethought that with the cougar sighting now that I think about it). Mowich Lake is the largest and deepest in the park, and shares its name with the Mowich River and nearby glaciers. The lake was incredibly beautiful, with its deep blue, clear water and forested surroundings. While the nearby camp is unappealing, Mowich Lake makes up for it. On the western side of the lake, the “official” Wonderland Trail continues north.
After another nice rest, It was onto the Spray Park Trail. With 6+ miles to go, the hardest part of our day was just getting started.
Maybe we were tired, maybe the miles were beginning to weigh on us, or maybe it was the heat, but suffice it to say that the alternate proved to be difficult. It was an extra 800 feet of elevation gain, and believe me, we felt every foot. We slogged the tree-laden 2.5 miles to Eagles Roost Camp. When we arrived at the junction, a confusing sign had us accidentally going off-trail to the camp. It was downhill and away from the main route. When we could not find the trail, I finally checked FarOut and saw the trail did not, in fact, pass through Eagles Roost. We had to climb all the way back to the main trail.
Spray Falls, an optional viewpoint, was located on a short 0.1-mile spur trail. We decided to catch our breath there. Fed by the Flett Glacier, Spray Creek drops 300+ feet over lava cliffs, transforming into an incredible waterfall. It is a worthy side trip. I so badly wanted to cross the creek to get an even better view of the falls, but the log was very narrow and slippery, and I did not want to risk injury.
After a short break here, we pressed on. It was an additional mile and 735 feet of elevation gain to reach Spray Park, and it was not easy hiking. Those switchbacks near the top were hell. I distinctly remember laughing at my own misery as we trudged. When we made it through the trees and into the meadow, it was all worth it. The sky opened up, and like a few days ago in Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, we were blessed with splendor.
Avalanche lilies and beargrass erupted from the ground, while our familiar friends, daisies, paintbrushes, and lupine added to the kaleidoscope. It was so magnificent, that we didn’t even get mad when we accidentally followed an unmarked footpath to an unnamed stream. It took us a while to even notice we got turned around.
The trail didn’t get easier, though; the sun beat down upon us, and the mosquitoes attacked with reckless abandon as we trekked through Spray Park. The wildflowers and mountain views distracted us from how tired we were. I understood why people recommend taking this path vs the more traditional one. It was breathtaking.
We still had a mile to go and almost 1,000 feet to reach the highest point along the alternate route. The climb was punishing; every step felt like two, and no matter how much water I drank, I was still thirsty. But oh, the views!!! As we climbed above the timberline towards Seattle Park, the terrain changed dramatically. The route was overrun with rocks, large and small. The wildflowers thinned out, and snowfields sat on and near the trail. The skyline, dominated by Mother Mountain to the north, stretched for miles. The terrain felt more remote, harsh, and the landscape was wild. Cairns and painted markers directed us through the otherworldly park. To the south, now closer than ever, Mt. Rainier lorded over it all.
“We must be thieves!” I thought. We had not seen anyone since Eagle’s Roost, and to have all this to ourselves must constitute a crime. Right before the high point of the day, I got my first taste of hiking through snow ✔️. What a day!!! The only thing I regret is that we couldn’t have stayed a little longer. Spray Park was truly the highlight of the trip so far.
From the high point, it was a 2-mile, 2,000 ft descent to our camp, Cataract Valley. One last steep snowfield stood in our way. Each step was a lesson in patience, and I had to catch myself more than once. We followed a few clear creek streams, and soon the trail became an actual trail again. Before we even realized it, we were back in the woods.
The only thing of note on the way down was how tired we were. This had been by far the toughest day so far, and when we finally rolled into camp, it was noticeable. The joints were a little more sore, Kyle counted over 20 mosquito bites, and camp took a little longer to get set up that night. Luckily, the water source was right next to us, and the privy was also close by. We would not have to move that much tonight. Despite the tired and sore legs, we were still handling the tail well. Nick and I have done some pretty rugged hikes before, but this was Kyle’s first, and he was crushing it.
We were now half done with the trail, both in days and mileage. At dinner, we looked at our maps to game plan for tomorrow. I’m not going to lie, it looked foreboding. We had 15 miles to go to get to Sunrise Camp, and even more importantly, it was going to take 5,200+ feet of elevation gain to get there (by far the most of any single day of our trip).
I told the guys that, though tomorrow would be difficult, the way I planned the trip was to have all our really hard days front-loaded. Once we made it to Sunrise, it would not only be easier, but the best campsites awaited us with shelters. All we had to do was get through tomorrow.
Sleep came easily that night. No melatonin required.
Camp Review
- MLG’s Camp Rating: 7.5/10
Cataract Valley was similar to Paradise River. It is a mostly wooded camp with no great views and a strange bathroom setup (back-to-back open air toilets). A few factors give Cataract Valley the slight edge.
The group site was among the largest, with plenty of good, flat ground, and the water source for Cataract Valley run through camp. We only had to take a few steps to collect and filter water. Lastly, today’s hike was extremely tiring, and getting into camp was such a relief; it automatically gets a half-point boost.
- Kyle’s Camp Rating: 6/10
“Wide open spaces with level ground and plenty of logs for seating. Includes a nice dinner circle arrangement. The group site was the least private so far. We saw many other hikers coming near our site, utilizing the water source that ran through the camp. The water source was a double-edged sword. The water was cold and convenient and doubled as a balance beam to cross first thing in the morning with stiff joints.”
“Ultimately, a fine camp, but not as interesting as others.”
- Nick’s Camp Rating: 7/10
“Nothing to write home about. Not great, not bad. Having a close water source was convenient. Crossing over the log wasn’t a great predicament, but relatively benign. I imagine the back-to-back, open-air bathroom situation makes for fun times with strangers, but I wasn’t lucky enough to have such an experience.
Day 4 Top Highlight
Spray park, next question.
Notable Quote(s)
“Dancing Queen…Banger!!! Waterloo…banger!!! Fernando…banger!!! Put some respect on Abba’s name, dammit!!!” – Me, defending Abba from Kyle’s vicious slander against them.
Previously: Wonderland Trail: Day 3 (South Puyallup River to Golden Lakes)
Next: Wonderland Trail: Day 5 (Cataract Valley to Sunrise)