The Presidential Traverse

Six years ago was my first backpacking trip attempt of the Pemigewasset Loop in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. After one day, and 6 gruelling miles, I was not adequately prepared for the challenge. With my tail between my legs, I bailed after one night and drove all the back to Virginia, a defeated man. Ultimately, that sharp lesson helped me become a better hiker. I would never start a hike again without the proper research and preparation.

With some experience under my belt, I now realize how difficult the White Mountains are. Appalachian Trail thru-hikers fear them for good reason. Their “trails” are strewn with massive boulders and the weather is some of the worst on the entire planet. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more rugged area of the country than the Whites.

Fast-forward to September 2024, I found myself back in New Hampshire to take on one of the crown jewel hikes in the United States. The Presidential Traverse.

Part 1: Fun Facts

Hike Name: Presidential Traverse

Location: New Hampshire (White Mountain National Forest)

Permits Required: Not for hiking, but reservations for camping/shelters are required.

Hike Type: Point-to-Point

Direction Hiked: Southbound

Month and Year Hiked: Early September 2024 (Labor Day Weekend)

Distance Recorded: 20.35 miles

Time Completed In: 2 Days, 1 Night

Elevation Gain Recorded: 8,218 feet

Link to Activity: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/15607952064

GPX File:

Part 2: Trip Report

Day 1: September 1st, 2024 (Valley Way to Mizpah Spring Hut, 16.2 miles)

I began from the Valley Way parking lot on US-2. The morning air was cool, with the early signs of fall just starting to creep in. I decided to go southbound to get the toughest climbs out of the way first. My end goal for the day being Mizpah Hut, more than 15 miles away. Spoiler alert, I should have known better.

There are a myriad of options to get above treeline. I took the most direct route up the Valley Way Trail. It climbed over 4,000 feet in 3.8 miles, which was more than half of the elevation gain for entire hike. I listened the various waterfalls as I climbed through the green tunnel. I don’t know if I was out of shape or what, but I was more tired than usual this early into a hike. Eventually, the forest gave way to alpine tundra. The trees disappeared right as I made it to the Madison Springs Hut.

Above treeline, the temperature dropped considerably. I threw on a mid-layer to compensate. It was quite cloudy,but every now and then, the sun would sneak out from behind the clouds giving me a nice shot of warmth.

My original plan was to take the Osgood Trail up to the Madison’s peak and then come back, but it was almost 1000 hours already, so I did not have time to make it up all the way. I climbed about halfway up, got some photos of Mt. Adams and continued on.

From the hut, I took the Airline Trail up to the peak of Mt. Adams, giving me the first real taste of the rugged whites. I scrambled up a mile of boulders to get the summit. The views were immaculate. To the north, Mount Madison, with the hut nestled below. To the south, Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Washington dominated the landscape.

After a quick break, I rock-hopped my way down Lowe’s Path from to Thunderstorm Junction, which, I gotta say, is a badass name for a junction. At this intersection of many different trails, I got my bearings and started on the Gulfside Trail towards Jefferson, following the massive cairns that marked the path.

The trail ahead was mostly just more rocks, and it was taking considerable effort to hike this section. By the time I made it to the base of Mount Jefferson, it was already 1215. I had been hiking for 6 hours, and only gone 6 miles. With 9+ miles to go, at my current pace, I couldn’t tag all the peaks along the way and make to Mizpah before an ungodly hour. Just like my very first backpacking trip, I managed to underestimate the White Mountains again. I bypassed the Jefferson summit via the Gulfside Trail toward the most visited monument of this hike, Mt Washington.

Standing at 6,288 ft, Mt Washington is both the 2nd highest, and the most topographically prominent mountain east of the Mississippi River. Before it was named after America’s first president, It was called different names by various indigenous peoples. The Algonquins called it “Waumbik” (“White Rocks”). Other tribes called it “Kodaak Wadjo” (“the top is so hidden”), while the Abenaki named it “Agiocochook” or “Agiochook” (“the place of the Great Spirit”).

It is is famous for having the most extreme weather in the country and highest winds in the world. Each year, hundreds of thousands visit the summit via the railway, car, or by hiking to it. It has its own observatory, restaurant, railway station, and parking lot.

The last mile to the peak felt never-ending. When the observatory came into view, so did the other hikers. The trail became became considerably crowded. I even had to wait for a few trains to pass before crossing the railroad tracks that lead to the top. When I finally made it to the visitor center, there had to be hundreds of people up there. The line to take a pic with the summit line stretched around multiple buildings. I can’t imagine there are too many mountains as busy as this one is on a daily basis.

Tired and hungry, I walked into the cafeteria, bought a bowl of hot chili, a piece of cornbread and a coke. Maybe it was the lack of a proper breakfast, or the sheer difficulty of the hike, but that may have been the best meal I have ever had. I even had reception to video call my wife and son. Seeing them raised my spirits after a gruelling day.

Unfortunately, I still had 6 miles to go, so my much needed break had come to an end. On my way out, I caught a great view of the northern section. I was told on an extremely clear day, it is possible to see the Atlantic Ocean. I tried my best, but could not find it.

Going southbound over Mount Washington brought me the to the Crawford Path, the oldest continuously maintained hiking trail in the United States. Built in 1819, it still stands to this day, and is one of the most famous sections of the Appalachian Trail. I was halfway done with the hike, and the last 10 miles were mostly downhill.

The Lake of the Clouds Hut and its alpine tarns were just visible in the distance, with the rest of the southern presidentials waiting beyond. Sitting at approximately 5,000 ft, these two lakes are the highest elevation lakes east of South Dakota. The Mountain hut sits right in between them, and is the most iconic of the Appalachian mountain huts along the trail.

When I arrived, there were a lot of hikers relaxing by the water. Many were done hiking for the day, and resting up before dinner. A few brave souls were even swimming in the frigid waters. Inside the hut, the hut’s “croo” were setting up for dinner. I am not sure what it was, but it smelled delicious. Mizpah could not come soon enough. At this stage, I was just hoping to make in time for dinner. Thinking about it now, if I had to do the hike again, I would stay at the Lake of the Clouds hut to split the hike up a bit more evenly.

As I made it across the southern half of the traverse, The terrain was much more forgiving than the jagged crags of the north. This was the flattest section of the trail so far, which allowed to me move a bit quicker. Unfortunately, I had to take the Crawford path around both Monroe and Eisenhower to avoid hiking in the dark, though I was able to tag the small summit of Mt. Franklin in between.

Around 1930 hours, I got a gorgeous composition of the setting sun. I could not pass it up, so I set my tripod up and captured the most incredible sunset I’ve ever seen. That alpenglow is really something else.

The last summit of the day was Mt. Pierce. Standing over 4,300 ft, Pierce is overshadowed by its northern neighbors. It is the most southern of the Presidential Mountains along the traverse. As I took one final break before the last push, I saw an ominous looking cloud shelf overtake the setting sun. It was time to hurry.

The last half mile of the day felt like the longest, the southern side of Pierce was steep, and it was not fun getting down in the dark. Even taking care, I slipped more than once.

At 2030 hours, I made it to my destination. When I walked in, the warmth and smell of delicious food hit me like a ton of bricks. The hut was abuzz with conversation and laughter. Even though the hut was massive, it felt cozy. When I apologized to to the croo for my late arrival, they were very understanding, especially when hearing where I started my hike that day. They gave me my room number, told me to get comfortable, and they would have dinner ready for me in a few minutes.

After getting dressed and dropping my gear off, I came back down for dinner. I was served turkey soup and stuffed shells, and they were still piping hot. It was exactly what the doctor ordered after 15 miles in 15 hours. As I stuffed my face, a steady rain began outside. It seems, I made it just in time. In all the time I sat in the dining hall, no other hikers showed up. I was the last one to arrive that day. I felt kind of awkward sitting by myself, but I just did not have the energy to make any friends.

At 2200 hours, the croo announced lights out. I was so exhausted, I could not wait to get to bed. My bunk had an actual bed, 3 wool blankets and a pillow. Mizpah hut itself was three stories tall, had multiple rooms and a bathroom with running sink water. Compared to what I was used to, it may as well have been a 5-star hotel.

Day 2: September 2nd, 2024 (Mizpah Spring Hut to AMC Highland Center (4.1 miles)

I didn’t actually get to meet any of my roomates the night before, but from what I could gather there were about 5 of them. My alarm went off at sunrise, and as quietly as I could I got dressed and brought my pack to the dining hall. That way, I could get ready and not disturb them.

While I got my things in order, The croo set the tables for breakfast. Breakfast was served at 0700. Hot oatmeal, scrambled eggs, bacon, and pancakes, were passed around to each table family style. While we gorged ourselves, the croo put on a short play, and gave us an official weather forecast from the Mt. Washington Observatory. I left right after I finished my portions, leaving the other 30+ guests who were taking their time and enjoying their meals. I had to be at the AMC Highland Center to catch a shuttle at 1330 hours, and with how slow I hiked yesterday, I didn’t want to chance missing it.

Stepping out from the warm, cozy hut into the crisp mountain air was was enough to fully wake me up. Fog clung to the treetops, the granite rocks were slick from yesterdays rains, and all the smells of the forest lingered in the air. It was a glorious morning.

Compared to yesterday, the trail was a piece of cake. My first mile of the day brought to the base Mt. Jackson. Carefully, I scrambled up the near vertical granite slabs to the summit. My shoes were actually quite grippy on the open faced rocks, despite the recent precipitation.

Upon arrival, Jackson’s peak was covered in a thick fog, so whatever view it offered was non-existent. With the wind picking up and near-freezing temperature, it was an easy decision to keep it moving. Still, it was beautiful forest, and at least the insects were non-existent. I finished the trail around 1130 hours, and walked the short distance from the trailhead to the AMC Highland Center along US-302. I had two hours to kill before my shuttle so I relaxed on one of the comfy couches they had in the lobby and called my family to let them know I was finished.

At 1330 hours, the shuttle arrived and brought me back to my car at Valley Way. Ending another fantastic hike.

Because of the new moon, I stayed in new Hampshire an extra night to get some astro shots. After a few hours of messing around, I think I got a good one.

Part 3: Miscellaneous Details

Logistics:

Since a traditional traverse is a point-to-point hike, the easiest way to complete it is with two cars. This allow hikers to shuttle themselves between both trailheads and avoid trying to time their hike to AMC shuttle schedules. I drove my car from Virginia and stayed at the CoHo Hostel in Conway, NH. I highly recommend them, it was cheap, clean, and the staff were friendly. The next morning. I made the 1 hour drive to the Appalachia/Valley Way trailhead.

At the end of my hike, I took the AMC hiker shuttle from Crawford back to my car. The shuttle was on time and dropped me off right next to my car. Make sure you are on time though, there were two people who did not show up, and after 10 minutes past the original departure time, the driver left. If you can manage, I would suggest taking the shuttle at the beginning of your hike so that you can hike right toy your vehicle.

Water:

Natural water sources are abundant in the Whites, although above treeline they are few and far between. When the AMC Huts are in season, you can get potable water from faucets right at the huts. Mt. Washington also has water from fountains as well as bottles you can purchase. With difficulty of this hike, I recommend carrying more water than you usually would.

Navigation:

The traverse had many signs, blazes and cairns leading the way. Overall, it was easy to follow, but there are dozens interconnecting trails all over the Presidentials. Pay close attention and make sure to have paper maps and GPS offline maps. Also, The alpine zone is home to both fragile and endangered plant life. Make sure to stay on trail.

Difficulty:

Mile-for-mile, the Presidential Traverse was the most difficult hike I have ever done. Getting stuck in bad weather on these mountains can be deadly. They have some of the highest wind speeds ever recorded, and it can go from bad to worse in an instant. I hike long trails regularly and still was barely able to crack more than 1 mile an hour. The southern half was a lot easier, but only compared to its northen mountains.

Hazards/Environmental Concerns:

If you take the traditional route you’ll be above treeline for more than 10 miles. On a sunny day, there is little to no shade up there. Make sure to bring sunscreen or other protection.

The weather in the Presidential Range is frequently poor and capricious. Even the most experienced hikers postpone this trip when there is even a chance for bad weather. The biggest hazards are high winds and thunderstorms. Rain and cold temperatures can easily lead to hypothermia. The Mount Washington Observatory is a great weather planning resource. They provide a forecast 36 hours out and current summit conditions. For longer range forecasts, NOAA’s weather site and Mountain Forecast are both good options. It is super important to check and recheck the weather before you hike.

Camping/Lodging options:

There are few different camping/lodging options for this trip.

–AMC Huts: The Appalachian Mountain Club has three Alpine huts along the traverse, Madison Spring, Lakes of the Clouds, and Mizpah Spring. They are open from late May or early June through late September to mid-October. They are by online/phone reservation only. I do think they offer some work-for-stays to AT thru-hikers though.

RMC Cabins: The Randolph Mountain Club has four Year-round shelters in the near the traverse. Daytime use is free, but fees are collected for overnight use. Spots are first-come, first-served basis. Gray Knob and Crag Camp are fully enclosed cabins with sleeping quarters, while the Perch and Log Cabin are three-sided shelters.. All sites have a water source nearby, and a single outhouse with composting toilet.

–Camping: If you’re not staying in AMC huts or one of the few self-service cabins, you must camp at designated tent sites below treeline. Valley Way, The Perch Tentsite, and Nauman Tentsite are all viable options. Spots are first-come first-serve.

Wildlife/Insect Pressure:

The White Mountain National Forest is home to bald eagles, beavers, white-tailed deer, moose, black bears, Canadian lynx, bobcats, foxes, and porcupines along with countless other species. I unfortunately did not see any of them while on trail. SInce the weather was cool, insects were not a problem.

Last Word

The Presidential Traverse trail is one of the legendary hikes in the United States. I’ve had some pretty epic adventures over the years, and this one is right near the top. The views, the uniqueness, and the difficulty truly lived up to the hype. If you are going to try and take this one on, make sure you prepare properly, but the rewards will be more than worth the pain. Trust me.

Author’s note: Since I did skip some of the summits, purists might argue that I did not do an official Presidential Traverse. If that’s the case, then I am cool with my unofficial one.

As always, Thank you for reading. . You can check out all of my other reports here.