A lot of you may not know that I am originally from the Midwest. Born in Illinois, and raised in northwest Indiana (shouts to the 219), the flyover states are in my blood. Chicago deep dish > New York Style (that’s right, I said it). Despite the lack of mountains and epic views, there are some hidden hiking gems there if you can find them. There are also some real ass-kickers. I’m looking at you Knobstone Trail.
Anyway, I’ve been wanting to get back there to do some hiking and show that there is way more to the midwest than you might think. That is why I was excited to head back to the heartland to hike Pictured Rocks, America’s first National Lakeshore. Known for its distinctive cliffs, shipwrecks , glowing rocks, vibrant fall colors, and the occasional northern lights appearance, this Lake Superior coastline is one of the best hiking destinations in the middle of the country.
The actual trail this guide covers is a 40+ mile section of the The North Country Trail, which is a footpath that stretches approximately 4,600 miles from eastern New York to central North Dakota. It passes through seven states and is the longest of the eleven National Scenic Trails.
This trip also happened to be the annual group hike I organize with my friends, so I was joined by familiar faces you may remember from the Dolly Sods hike last year.
Part 1: Fun Facts
Hike Name: North Country Trail: Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Location: Michigan (Upper Peninsula)
Permits Required: Yes
Hike Type: Point-to-Point
Direction Hiked: Westbound
Month and Year Hiked: Early October 2024
Distance Recorded: ≈ 45 miles
Time Completed In: 4 Days, 3 Nights
Elevation Gain Recorded: ≈ 2,133 feet
Link to Activity: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/17225533324
GPX File:
Part 2: Trip Report
Day 1: October 2nd, 2024 (Grand Sable Visitor Center to Benchmark Campsite, 12.4 miles)
After a hectic day of driving 10+ hours, and a night spent yooperlite hunting (with much success) at the Lake Superior State Forest Campground, we woke up early and drove an hour to the Munising Falls Visitor Center, parked our vehicle, then took the hour long shuttle to Grand Sable Visitor Center where we began our trek.
Right off the bat, this trail taught me just how diverse the landscape truly was. When I do my research on hikes, I mostly focus on the most important aspects, like safety, permits, etc. Intentionally, I like to stay away from too many specific details on the route itself. That way I can stay somewhat surprised out there. Ignorantly, I assumed the entire hike would hug the shoreline within sight of Lake Superior. In fact, we would pass marshes, hardwoods, dirt paths along beaches, dunes, and old-growth forests. It was not until 6 miles in that we even saw the largest great lake.
When we did though, it was epic. The log slide overlook was our first view of the coast, and what a sight it was. To the east, 300 foot tall dunes rising like a wall above the blue water, to the west the Au Sable lighthouse and miles of trees just beginning their autumn transformation, and to the north, the deep blue of Lake Superior stretched as far as the eye could see. There was zero chance we’d find a better lunch spot, so we took one right there.
After a leisurely break, we headed to the next landmark, the Au Sable Lighthouse. The station was built in 1874 on Au Sable Point, a notorious hazard on the lake’s “shipwreck coast”. The nearby reef is shallow and extends almost a mile into Lake Superior. It was one of the greatest dangers along the south shore during olden days. The remnants of a few shipwrecks are still there right along the beach. This was probably one of the more popular destinations in the area. It definitely was the most crowded section of trail so far.
We made it to the Benchmark campsite prior to nightfall. Our site was near the top of the dunes that led directly to the beach. After we were all set up, I captured some sunset shots during golden hour, before making some dinner and getting some sleep.
Day 2: October 3rd, 2024 (Benchmark Campsite to Chapel Beach Campsite, 15 miles)
I made sure to wake up early to catch the sunrise on the beach. In the past few years, I’ve started incorporating a bit of landscape photography on my hikes. I bought a used Sony A7RIII, a lens, a tripod, and some filters. The added gear has increased my base weight, but It has been a lot of fun learning, and it gives me something else to do while I’m out there. It adds a bit of a challenge, and the difference in quality of photos I’ve taken are pretty drastic.
When I got back, the crew was having breakfast. While eating, we went over the route for the day. It was going to be a 15 miler, which would make it the longest day of our hike. Luckily, the trail was pretty much flat and gentle the entire time, so it was not nearly as strenuous as some of our previous hikes. Still, 15 miles is 15 miles.
Almost immediately after we began, we ran into a parking lot and drive-in campground. The waste bins allowed us to rid ourselves of our trash, and the bathroom was fully enclosed which was nice. The one at camp was completely exposed. Just a toilet in the middle of the forest. Eventually, the path led us into an inland woods, where we found a long-abandoned, decomposing. Some of the initials etched into its chassis were from the 1980s. The first half of the day was spent in the trees, just out of reach of the shoreline. 8 miles in, near the pine bluff campsite, we finally had beach access. We ran down the hilly dunes to enjoy our lunch right on the beach.
It was a gorgeous day. The sun was shining, but the cool October winds kept us from overheating. As I meandered down the rocky shoreline, I found a kaleidoscope of agates, basalt, and other stones being pummeled by the lazy surf. Each new wave would bring new ones in and take others away.
As 1 hour turned to 2, we somehow were still the only ones at the beach. In fact, I was kind of shocked we did not see more people on the trail. With all the traffic around Au Sable and the drive-in campgrounds, I expected to see more hikers, but for the most part, the trail was devoid of people in between the landmarks. Not that I’m complaining.
Shortly after lunch, Ryan and I Ryan and I got separated from Ethan and Vladi for bit after we took a short rest. They took one path and we took a parallel separate one. Reception was very spotty on the trail, so we couldn’t really text or call each other. All the paths led to the same place eventually, and Vladi had the route downloaded, so I wasn’t too concerned.
While we were split up, Ryan and I passed the Coves Campsite, and then the landscape suddenly changed. The serene beaches were now dramatic cliffs into aquamarine waters. Ryan and I went out on some rocks and experienced first hand how powerful Lake Superior was as the waves crashed near us. It reminded me of the coast in the Pacific Northwest.
Around 1800 hours, Ryan and I took a rest near Spray Falls. We debated whether to press on or wait and see if Ethan and Vladi showed up. I was convinced they had to be ahead of us because we took many breaks for pictures and spent a good portion of the hike that day exploring the area. Just as we were getting ready to continue, Ethan and Vladi appeared. Somehow they did not pass us. Reunited, we made it to Spray Falls which is a 70 ft waterfall that cascades directly into lake Superior. While the guys were collecting water, I followed Spray Creek right to the top of the falls. I saw the Pictured Rocks Cruise ship from the top of the falls. I gave them a quick wave and retreated back into the forest.
Our last stop of the day brought us to Chapel Rock. A towering rock formation with a hole in the middle and a large tree growing out of the top. It has a long root that keeps it connected it to the mainland. The lone pine standing atop is estimated to be around 250 years old! It is one of the most striking landmarks in Pictured Rocks. We arrived just as the sun was setting, so i was able to snap a few quick shots before it got too dark. Our campsite was nearby at Chapel Beach.
After we set up for the night We made a “fire” and enjoyed some witty banter before two annoying, persistent mice barged in camp. We had to fight them off for a bit, but once we finished eating and secured all the smelly stuff in the bear box, they mostly left us alone.
I told the guys, that I was waking up before dawn to try and get some sunrise shots of the upcoming Battleship Rocks and Grand Portal Point since they were supposed to be the best of the hike. They declined to join me, which was completely understandable after the long day we had. I told them I would wait at the Grand Portal for them.
Day 3: October 4th, 2024 (Chapel Beach Campsite to Cliffs Campsite, 12 miles)
I woke up, and it was still pitch black outside. I put on all of my warmest hiking gear because it was an extremely cold fall morning. those first few miles of “night” hiking woke me up better than coffee could. It didn’t take long before I reached the good stuff.
As the light crept through the trees, I was greeted by some of the most iconic images of Pictured Rocks. At Grand Portal Point, I and ate breakfast as I listened to the sound and fury of Lake Superior crashing against the cliffs. As the sun hit the treeline, it ignited the landscape. The trees burned bright reds oranges, and yellows, and the mineral stained sandstone sparkled with its shades of iron, copper, manganese and limonite in the morning glow.
Meanwhile, Grand Island, Lover’s Leap, and the rest of the jagged bluffs struck out into Lake Superior like jagged fangs. If you can only do a small section of this trek, plan to do this stretch. For approximately 3 hours I laid down on the cliffs taking photos and basking in the land around me. In all the time I was there, maybe 2 people walked by me. It was peaceful. I could not have started the best day of the hike any better.
Eventually my friends joined me, and after a short break we marched on. The next 6 miles to Miner’s Castle were equally fantastic. The trail was right near the water, and the rock formations were unrelenting. We had to to have passed a dozen fantastic views. The afternoon light turned the dark blue water, green.
In the mid-afternoon, we made it it Miner’s Beach, which would end up being our last beach stop on trail. We had a nice long break here. With less than 10 miles to go, we were getting closer to the end. Everyone was holding up pretty well. From Miner’s beach to Miner’s Castle the trail goes back into the woods and actually has a short but steep uphill section. This was also the most crowded section of trail so far, I passed numerous day hikers on my up to the Miner’s Castle Visitor Center.
At the center, we utilized the bathrooms which were by far the nicest so far. It felt good to use warm water and soap for the first time in a few days. Since our next campsite at Cliffs did not have water, we used the spigot to fill up for the rest of the night. While checking out the view at the overlook, I got reception for the first time in a while. I learned that a solar storm with a KP index of 5 was predicted, which had to the potential to bring the northern lights. The Upper peninsula is one of the best places to the see the aurora in the continental US when a strong enough storm hits, so I knew what I would be doing that night.
The trail left the visitor center and entered a dark forest. A few miles in, and the path to our campsite veered to the left. Cliffs campground was set back in the woods far from the lake. Once we were settled, I observed that another nearby group had a fire going, with the temperature already dropping, I asked the group if we could join them and they agreed right away.
They were extremely friendly and had done a lot of hiking across the country. Of particular interest to me was their thru-hike of the Centennial Trail in South Dakota. That hike has been on my radar for a while, so I was grateful to pick their brains on it. After they went to sleep we tended to the fire and kept it roaring. It was the coldest night on the hike so far.
After twilight ended, I went back out to the overlook by the lake and got some good dusk and milky way photos, but no aurora. I waited for a while, but the solar data from my app was not optimistic. To see them this far south, the right conditions all need to come together, and it did not appear like it was going to happen tonight. I have never seen them in person, so I was a little disappointed, but there would be in the future. After a few hours I gave up, and crawled into my sleeping bag to escape the cold.
Day 4: October 5th, 2024 (Cliffs Campsite to Munising Falls Visitor Center, 5 miles)
For once, I was not the first one of my group to wake up. When my alarm blared, Ryan was already awake making some coffee. Shortly thereafter, Ethan and Vladi.
We did not spend very long in camp that morning, everyone was ready to get home. the final 5 miles consisted of walking through the same cool, dense forest we started yesterday evening. Nearing civilization, our primary topic of conversation was where our post-hike victory meal would be.
We made it to a densely crowded Munising Falls Visitor Center in the late morning. After a quick change, we got coffee and breakfast in Munising, then made the 8 hour drive back to Indiana, another incredible hike in the books. Even then, I was already starting to plan the next trip in my head. I’m thinking Pacific Northwest…
Part 3: Miscellaneous Details
Logistics:
Grand Marais to Munising is a point-to-point hike, so it requires a little extra planning. I flew into Chicago O’hare Airport the day before, picked up a rental car and drove to northwest Indiana to pick up my friends before driving 9 hours through Michigan. That same night, we stayed at the Lake Superior State Forest Campground. Around 0600 hours the next morning we left camp, and drove approximately 1.5 hours to the Munising Falls Visitor Center (western terminus) before boarding a pre-arranged shuttle at 0745 hours. The bus then took us to Grand Sable Visitor Center (eastern terminus) where we then hiked back to our vehicle.
As of 2024, the shuttle was $35 a person, it was on time, and a comfortable ride. They offer a few different routes and times through the day. If you cannot bring two vehicles, then this shuttle is what I would recommend.
There are no major airports near Pictured Rocks, though there are a few small regional ones. As I stated before, I flew from DC to Chicago because it was really cheap, I was picking up friends, and it was a relatively manageable drive.
Closest Airports:
-Marquette Sawyer Regional Airport (MQT): This is the closest airport to Pictured Rocks. It is approximately 43 miles to Munising; a 50 minute drive.
-Milwaukee Mitchell International Airport (MKE): This is probably the best option for flying into Pictured Rocks. It is the closest major airport. It is approximately 298 miles; a 4 hour 51 minute drive.
-Chicago O’Hare International Airport (ORD): This is the 2nd closes option for flying into Pictured Rocks. It is approximately 367 miles; a 5 hour 49 minute drive.
–Detroit Metropolitan Wayne County Airport (DTW): Though in Michigan, this option is further than both Milwaukee and Chicago. It is approximately 424 miles; a 6 hour drive.
-Minneapolis–Saint Paul International Airport (MSP): Lastly, the this major airport is a similar distance to Detroit, but seems to take longer for some reason. It is approximately 430 miles; a 7 hour drive.
Water:
Lake Superior is the world’s largest freshwater lake by surface area and for pretty much the entire hike, you are walking within sight of it. In addition, there are numerous, rivers, creeks and streams, that you can fill up from along the way. If you are going to filter water from Superior, make sure to be safe, some parts of the trail are on cliffs that would be dangerous to try and get down, so make sure you use common sense when picking your refill spots.
Navigation:
We followed the North Country Trail (NCT), which is a long-distance National Scenic Trail. It is well marked with signs at intersections and the path is obvious and easy to follow. Many of the intersecting trails take you back to the NCT, so it would be difficult to get lost as long as you knew where you were going. Strangely enough, I could not locate a single blaze along the pathway. I am not that familiar with the North Country Trail, but I wonder if it is blazed at all.
Difficulty:
The trail is mostly flat, with only 2,000 feet of elevation over 40+ miles. Some of it is in sand which can be annoying, but the majority is on well-trod dirt paths. Aside from the mileage, which admittedly is a lot, I found this to be one of the easiest trails I have ever done.
Hazards/Environmental Concerns:
Lake Superior prevents deep cold for much of the winter, slowing spring warming, and keeping summers relatively cooler overall. It still does get hot in the summer, and Lake Effect Snow can make winter hiking dangerous. This area of Michigan is also the second most cloudy region of the US, with much of the cloudiness coming in the fall and early winter.
Other hazards include (but not limited to) the cliffs along the shoreline of Lake Superior. The trail passes very close, and sometimes right up the edge of some of these cliffs and rise hundreds of feet above the water. A fall would most likely be deadly, so be safe and use good judgment when trying to get that cool photo. In addition, the cliffs are slowly eroding over time and some have collapsed in more recent times. Lake Superior itself is also a hazard, the water is usually very cold throughout the year and rip currents are not uncommon. Wild parsnip and poison ivy are in the park as well. Wild parsnip can cause serious chemical burns.
Camping/Lodging options:
Along the North Country Trail, there are 14 backcountry camping sites for hikers and 3 drive-in campgrounds. They are are spaced between 2 and 5 miles apart. Permits are required. Individual sites within camp are identified by a numbered post, and are available for groups of 1-6 people. Groups of 7+ must camp in designated group sites. There is a maximum three consecutive day stay at any campground. Each campsite I encountered had a privy, bear boxes, and close access to lake Superior for water (except Cliffs campsite). Pets, bikes, motorized vehicles, and drones are not allowed at any backcountry campsite. Water systems and toilets throughout the park shut down on October 15.
Wildlife/Insect Pressure:
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is home to over 300 native vertebrates, with 58 fish, 12 amphibian, 5 reptile, 182 bird and 42 mammal species,
Because of the variety of environments at the park, the wildlife is also greatly varied. It includes white-tailed deer, black bear, gray wolves, and moose. if you look to the skies, you may see eagles, osprey, hawks, and falcons. Rodents, like the fisher, mink, marten, beaver, skunk, and squirrels call the park their home, while various fish, mussels, and crustaceans live in the lakes and streams.
Based on my research, If you attempt this hike from mid-May through August, the bugs are are a huge nuisance that you will need to prepare for. Mosquitoes, black flies, stable flies, deer flies, horse flies, no-see-ums, and ticks are all in abundance in the park during the late spring and summer. Since I hiked in October, the weather was cool and I did not have any trouble with insects. On a few occasions I was bit by a few small flies, but nothing too annoying.
Last Word
What a great trip to end the 2024 hiking season on. Though it was 40+ miles, it was one of the easier hikes I have done. the reward-to-pain ratio was quite high. I will definitely have spend more time in the upper peninsula in the future.
Author’s note: As many of you may know, in late September, Hurricane Helene destroyed and damaged many communities along the Appalachian Trail. Almost 100 people are still missing since the storm ended. The AT is a special place with special people, and so I would ask that if you can, please donate the Hurricane Helene Relief Fund. Their efforts include mutual aid and philanthropy, ensuring that support reaches those who need it most.
Thank you for reading, check out my other adventures here.
