When the Northern Lights Danced in the Southern Sky

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As I wrote in my Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Trip Report, there was a non-zero chance of seeing the aurora. The Upper Peninsula of Michigan is very far north and one of the consistently best places to see the northern lights in the United States. Unfortunately, the solar conditions were not optimal, and I left Michigan without even a small glimpse. I was beginning to think the only way I was ever going to see them would involve a trip to Iceland, Norway, or Canada.

Before that hike, I browsed Facebook groups and the NOAA website and did a bit of research to learn more about solar storms and how to predict when they would make an appearance. I am by no means an expert, but I now know enough to have an idea when they will show up in the US.

Not a week after returning from Michigan, a fast coronal mass ejection (CME) erupted from the Sun the evening of October 8th, 2024. A massive G4 solar storm was predicted to arrive at Earth on October 10th. This storm was projected to bring the aurora from Maine to Washington, D.C., and beyond.

On the night in question, my wife, Amanda, and I dropped our toddler off with the grandparents (shouts to Dave and Di for being available on short notice). Then began the 3-hour drive to one of my favorite places in the world, the Dolly Sods, for which I wrote a trail guide here.

On the drive out there, Amanda and I tried to keep our expectations in check. It takes pretty unique circumstances to be able to see the aurora this far south. Still, I was cautiously optimistic. The forecast called for minimal clouds, no precipitation, and the skies at the Dolly Sods are some of the darkest in the area. If we were ever going to be able to see them, it was going to be tonight. Either way, it would be a fun, spontaneous adventure.

Any concerns I might have had were quickly abated. With an hour to go to our destination, as the sun set, the sky was suddenly bathed in a pink glow. To the north, we saw faint lights dancing in the sky. It was really happening!!! We were in shock. This was the first time we’d ever seen them. I almost pulled the car over right there on the side of the highway. Amanda’s sister texted us photos from her home, and she could even see them with all the light pollution. If they were this active right now, I would be excited to see what they looked like when astronomical twilight ended.

We hurried through winding roads, past dozens of deer, and up the five-mile gravel road to the tallest plateau east of the Mississippi River. We parked at Bear Rocks Preserve around 20:30. The temperature was literally below freezing, so we put on warm layers, grabbed our hand warmers, and ventured less than a half mile through red spruce, hemlock, mountain laurel, and rhododendron thickets.

The Aurora and a Stable Auroral Red (SAR) Arc Overlooking the Valley Below

Once we got our bearings, we found a good place near the overlook. For the next 4+ hours, we were treated to an incredible display. North, south, east, and west, the sky was alive with colors. As hyped as we were, we could not prepare ourselves for how truly awe-inspiring they were. Every hour would bring shifting patterns and hues. Sometimes the aurora is so faint that you need a camera lens to see it, but not on this night. We could see them with our naked eye.

The aurora went through phases; one minute, it would explode with color and movement, while other times it would slow to crawl. Eventually, after the moon set, another celestial friend made an appearance. The Milky Way joined in sharing the sky. I was able to capture some unbelievable shots of them together.

A grove of pine trees gather to watch the show
A Celestial Symphony

Around 0030, it was, regretfully, time to leave. We warmed up the car and prepared to depart. It was even colder, and we both had work in the morning. With the drive back, I was looking at 3 hours of sleep. While Amanda napped in the passenger seat, I drove back to Virginia, dodging even more deer. Every mile we went, the lights seemed to dim just a little more. By the time we crawled into bed, they had all but disappeared. Work was going to be a slog, but that was future Matthew’s problem. When I crawled into bed, all I thought about was the dancing lights of the aurora.

Last Word

If you ever get the chance to see the northern lights, do everything you can to make it happen. I’ve seen some pretty epic things in the outdoors, but nothing like them. Also, a word of advice: bring someone special along. It will make it all the more magical.

Spending the night with the most special person
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