A wise hiker once told me, mother nature doesn’t care about your itinerary, and this past weekend I learned just how right they were.
For the past few months, I put plans into motion that would allow me to hike the Presidential Traverse. I booked my shuttle, took off work, and made a reservation at Lake of the Clouds hut, which is probably the most iconic of the Appalachian Mountain Club stays. Everything was coming into place. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans. The forecast called for heavy rain, hail, high winds, and lightning, I made the decision to postpone that hike to a later date. It’s a dangerous hike in severe conditions, and Mount Washington is home of the worlds worst weather and has a claim to the deadliest mountains in United States.
It’s always good having a backup plan, and so I pivoted from the White Mountains of New Hampshire, to the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina. Enter Grandfather Mountain, one of the most technical hikes east of the Mississippi River.
Part 1: Fun Facts
Hike Name: Grandfather Mountain Trifecta
Location: North Carolina
Hike Type: Triangular Loop?
Direction Hiked: Hard to Explain…see map
Month and Year Hiked: Late June 2023
Distance Recorded: 19.30 miles
Time Completed In: 2 Days, 1 Night
Elevation Gain Recorded: 5,859 feet
Link to Activity: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/11423277427
GPX File:
Part 2: Trip Report
Day 1: June 24th, 2023
After a hectic few days of worrying about weather, booking last minute campsites, and getting refunds, it was nice to pull into the Profile Trailhead parking lot and see the sun shining. I quickly registered my hike and vehicle at the ranger’s booth and got steppin’. It was a seven hour drive from northern Virginia, so I didn’t start hiking until around 1300 hours.
The Profile Trail was pretty crowded with day hikers as I began. It crossed streams, a footbridge, massive rock outcroppings and many flat stone “steps” as I gradually made my up the winding switchbacks. It was well-maintained, and offered a few decent views of Grandfather Mountain. After a short break at Shandy Springs replenishing my water, I made the final push to the intersection with the Grandfather Trail.
Cliffside campsite was less than a half mile away from the intersection, and it was where I would be staying for the night. The unique route of this hike would have me backtracking quite a bit, so I set up camp early, and left some of my heavier items like my bear can, sleeping bag, etc. in my tent while I continued to swinging bridge. This strategy would cut my carrying weight in half so I could be lighter going over some of the more daring sections. I did not leave any food, or smelly things in my tent, because I did not want to come back to a bear rifling through my stuff.
The 2 miles from Cliffside to Swinging Bridge were some of the most technical, rugged, and beautiful miles of trail I have hiked in the east. I climbed and descended ladders, cables and went over exposed ridges all while the wind howled and clouds circled over and through my path.
Shortly after Attic Window campsite, I passed through a massive fracture in the side of the mountain. Here the trail drops 200 feet in 0.1 mile and becomes a rock scramble. It then forks, the Underwood trail descends below the mountain ridges to avoid the worst of the wind and exposure, while the continuing on the Grandfather Trail goes even higher along the mountain. Both trails lead to the same place and meet up at Grandfather Gap. I took the underwood trail down since a few ominous clouds were continuing to make their way overhead. I didn’t want to get caught on an exposed ridge while a thunderstorm raged.
A half-mile later and I was at the parking lot near the swinging bridge. Tourists were everywhere as I went over the mile high bridge to Linville Peak. I can confirm the bridge did swing as I went over it, and I heard the sound of creaking metal. Heights are not my thing. so I crossed as quickly as possible.
I bought a water from the store and took a nice long lunch break in the parking lot. The crowds began to thin as 1800 hours approached. That is when the parking lot at Swinging Bridge closed. Despite the difficult terrain and treacherous reputation, Grandfather Mountain is a really popular day-hike.
After the last of the cars vanished, I began my trek back. This time at Grandfather Gap I took the high route. My progress slowed as I squeezed my way through rocks and up ladders.
Winds gusted around me as I carefully planned each step up the mountain. I gripped the bolted cables tight praying the trail volunteers knew what they were doing when they installed them. Clouds rolled in, and the once visible mountain valleys were now imperceptible.
Once I went down the last of the ladders, the last mile back to Cliffside was a cake-walk. Fearing rain, I quickly organized my gear, made dinner and got comfortable. There was a slight chance of thunderstorms in the area, but as the night went on, it stayed completely dry. I actually got a decent night sleep for a change.
Day 2: June 25th, 2023
My alarm went off at 0500 hours. I hoped for a good sunrise, but fog had rolled into to the area and was expected to last all morning. Similar to yesterday, I would be backtracking to Cliffside later before finishing the hike, so I left my tent set up and my heavier items inside.
Immediately after departing, the trail shot straight up and included a few more ladders before reaching Calloway Peak, the tallest sub-peak of Grandfather Mountain. From my research, this was supposed to be the highlight of the trip. Unfortunately, it was fogged over, so the vista would have to wait until I came back this way later.
Leaving the Peak, the trail turns into Daniel Boone Scout Trail. I went down a few more ladders and just below the summit was the wreckage of a 1978 plane crash. This marks the second trail in as many years that I saw a wreckage of a plane crash along one of my hikes. You can read all about that hike right here.
Along with ladders, and cables, switchbacks were plentiful along this hike and the Daniel Boone Scout Trail proved to be no different. It eventually intersected with the Cragway Trail which I took. Cragway offered a few great exposed rock sections which was perfect as the fog disappeared. Approximately 0.6 mile later was Top Crag View, a magnificent vista of the surrounded peaks and valleys. I made sure to take a nice relaxing rest as I basked in the sun’s rays.
The Cragway trail continued to descend until I made a right onto the Nuwati Trail. After about 0.7 mile it merged onto the Tanawha trail. Both of these trails were in thick forests, and did not offer much in the way of views. There were some strong flowing streams however.
The Tanawha Trail eventually intersected back with the Daniel Boone Scout trail and I retraced my steps all the way up to Calloway. By this point I was pretty tired and sore, so it was a snail’s pace going back up all those switchbacks. At the top of Calloway Peak, the sun shone brightly over what just a few hours earlier was covered in dense fog and clouds.
The southern views were absolutely incredible. I could see the Black mountains, Blue Ridge Parkway and the Linville Gorge. I dropped my pack grabbed my snacks, and spent the next 30 minutes enjoying the warmth of the sun’s rays. As other hikers joined me, the peak began to feel a bit cramped, so I went down to Cliffside and packed up my gear.
The final 3.5 miles of my trip were a slog back down the Profile Trail to the parking lot. Even though it was all downhill, it felt like it took forever. When I finally reached the end. I immediately took off all my gear and poured a bottle of water over my head. I sat there in the parking lot leaning against my car basking in the sun before heading back home.
The weekend started with disappointment, and ending with a victory dinner from the always delicious Wooiboi Chicken in Herndon. Another successful trek completed.
Part 3: Miscellaneous Details
Logistics:
There are a few different options for accessing this series of trails. Two are challenging climbs from the valleys below. These paths are a part of the North Carolina State Parks. The other option is to enter via the private attraction near the swinging bridge. This attraction operates independently from the state park and costs money to enter.
To hit all the high points of this hike. I would suggest starting with either the Profile Trail or the Daniel Boone Scout Trail. The route I took is weirdly shaped, but for all intents and purposes it is a loop. A GPX track is available for download and my route is embedded at the bottom of this write-up.
Water:
There is one reliable water source along this route. Shandy Springs is a piped spring located on the profile trail approximately 3 miles from the profile parking lot. The recent rains caused there to be a few other sources of flowing water in other areas, but I wouldn’t rely on them being available year-round. There is also the Grandfather Mountain Top Shop located right next to the swinging bridge. It is a large store which sells various snacks, souvenirs and bottled water. It is expensive, but it was cold.
Navigation:
This hike consists of numerous intersecting trails marked with circular blazes. For my hike, I used a GPX file from Alltrails, and loaded it into my Garmin fēnix 5x to navigate.
Difficulty:
This was not an easy hike. Strong hikers can complete this in a day if started early enough, but the climbs are steep, rocky, and rooty. In addition, the There are ladders along some of the more perilous sections. It had rained the day before and many of the rocks were slick. That combined with the notorious strong winds of Grandfather Mountain make for a strenuous hike. If you do not like heights, you will very much dislike this trail.
Sun Protection:
I got plenty of sun the second day of my hike, and while there was a lot of tree cover, this hike goes over a good amount of exposed summits alpine environments.
Camping options:
There are 13 total campsites along this hike. All sites must be reserved, which can be made as early as 6 months in advance. Fees are charged for all campsites, and campers must have a reservation. You can find more information and book a site for yourself at the North Carolina State Parks and Recreation website.
Writer’s Note: Cliffside campsite (where I stayed) has a nearby perch with an incredible view of the nearby mountains and valleys, and it is the closest campsite (0.5 mile) to the only reliable water source on this hike. It was a great spot.
Insect Pressure:
I did not encounter any unusual or really annoying insects on my trip.. I did not find a tick on me, and I checked often.
Last Word
Initially, I must admit, it was a tad-bit disappointing having to resort to a backup plan rather than hiking the Presidential Traverse. However, now that it’s over, I can confidently say that Grandfather Mountain was a more than fair consolation prize.
The route I took contains miles of ladders, cables, rock scrambles, exposed outcroppings, and breathtaking views of the most iconic sections of the Appalachian mountains. With 4 summits that extend much higher than the surrounding valleys, it is an impressive, intimidating hike.
If you are looking for solitude, this probably isn’t the hike for you, I passed by many hikers along the system of trails, but even so, I did have a few summits to myself by getting to them at the right times.
Until this hike, Old Rag was my standard for technical hikes east of the Mississippi River, but now that I’ve experienced Grandfather Mountain, it has been supplanted. It is not for faint of heart, the weather can be unpredictable and change at a moments notice, and with all the scrambles and exposed sections it can be dangerous, but Grandfather Mountain a thrilling hike, and one I will have to do again.
Thank you for reading, To view some of my other treks, you can read them here.