Okay everyone, the time is finally here. A year of planning finally led me to one of the crown jewel hikes of the United States. I’m speaking of course about the Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim hike. On Labor Day Weekend 2023, a few friends and I trekked through the heart of one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
Nearly 5 million people visit the grand canyon annually, and only 1% make the formidable hike into it. In this post, I will detail how my companions Nick, Ryan, Ethan, and I became members of that elusive club.
Part 1: Fun Facts
Hike Name: Grand Canyon: Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim
Location: Arizona
Hike Type: Loop
Direction Hiked: North Rim to Bright Angel Trailhead, South Kaibab Trailhead back to North Rim
Month and Year Hiked: Early September 2023 (Labor Day Weekend)
Distance Recorded: ≈57 miles
Time Completed In: 3 Days, 2 Nights
Elevation Gain Recorded: ≈12,136 feet
Link to Activity: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/11963159117/share/1?lang=en
GPX File:
Part 2: Trip Report
Day 1: September 2nd, 2023
We woke up at the North-Rim Campground at around 0500 hours. The chaos caused by the Phantom Ranch’s closure led to ripple effects that forced us to change our plans on the fly (more on that in Part 3 of this post). Long story short, we did not arrive to the North Rim until approximately 10pm the previous night. A fitful night of sleep is not something I hoped for before starting one of the more arduous hikes in the United States. Them’s the breaks though. Upon arrival at the North Kaibab Trailhead with much heavier packs then we expected, we nervously headed down into the canyon knowing our task was going to be much more difficult.
Approximately a half-mile in, we reached Coconino Overlook, our first real glimpse into the great chasm. The light fog started to dissipate as we began to see the grandeur of the place. From the top of Rim to canyon floor, each rock layer combined to make a kaleidoscope of colors. It was unfortunate, that we could not stay longer, but we had 14 miles to go.
As we descended further, we passed through Supai tunnel and over Redwall bridge. The fog was all but gone now, giving way to sunshine and heat. The North Kaibab Trail hugged the cliff closely, and the whole way were sweeping views down Roaring Springs Canyon. We made pretty quick work of the trail until we reached Manzanita Rest House. There were at least 20-30 others who joined us in taking a long break there. The spigot read that the water would need to be boiled or filtered as part of the water pipeline break. This would end up being the case until we reached the Havasu gardens Campground near the South Rim.
One hour later and we were off again. Before leaving, we checked the thermometer and it read 90F. For the canyon this was considered balmy weather. After Manzanita, the trail crossed Bright Angel Creek. From here it would be our constant companion all the way to the Colorado River. There were no more switchbacks anymore, instead the path became a gentle and gradual descent. Cottonwood Campground came on us fairly quickly and the canyon finally started to open up.
1.2 miles from the campground was the junction to Ribbon Falls. I could see the towering waterfall in the distance. The bridge was leading to it was gone, so we made the slog up asinine hill and found a place to cross the creek. We had to do some route-finding to get to the base of Ribbon Falls, but it was worth it. The moss covered spire loomed far above us as water rained down. I was the first of our group to wade into the shallow pool. Ethan, Ryan, and Nick joined next. Normally, this would be the perfect spot for a long lunch break; however, a heavy rain began to fall. Early September is Monsoon season and Bright Angel Creek flash floods on occasion. We didn’t want to risk trying to cross a flooded creek, so after some photos, we hurried back to the North Kaibab Trail.
We then started our way through the infamous “Box”, which is the hottest part of the canyon, the rain softened a bit as we winded through the narrow canyon. Sure enough, not long after, Bright Angel Creek started to flood. What was a mostly clear, gentle creek turned to a cloudy surge of rushing water. It reminded me of a scene from Jurassic Park.
The sun was starting to set now, and our bodies were starting to feel it. The rain had stopped allowing us to dry off a little, but our footwear was still soaked. Nick and I hiked ahead to get a good spot at the Bright Angel Campground, and we made it to the Phantom Ranch first. I dropped by the canteen, which was still open with limited selections. I bought four beers to surprise the guys with. It was the coldest, most delicious beer I have ever tasted. Ethan, Nick, and Ryan ended buying a few other souvenirs from the ranch. Since I was able to reschedule our Phantom Ranch reservation, I decided to forgo the buying of souvenirs until I officially return in May 2024.
That night was a tough one, our heavier packs took their toll, and we were all very tired when we got to our tent site. Ryan had a bunch of blisters, and him and Ethan had decided to end their hike tomorrow after going up Bright Angel Trail. This was reasonable as the Rim-Rim hike is usually the goal of most canyon hikers. Nick and I were maniacs to do the Rim-Rim-Rim especially in the direction we decided to do it in.
We ate some food and relaxed as best we could. Despite the unusually cool weather, it was still warm in the canyon at night. When it was time for bed, I crawled into my tent and barely put my 20F rated sleeping bag over me. Thankfully, the melatonin kicked in quickly as I fell asleep.
Day 2: September 3rd, 2023
When you are hiking in the Grand Canyon, your best bet is to get up way before the sun rises, and start as soon as possible. That way get a lot of hiking done when it is safe to do so. The National Park Service does not recommend hiking in-between 1000-1600 hours when the temperature is hottest.
Even though we were getting lucky with weather, Nick and I had a long day ahead of us. We would have to go the 9 miles up Bright Angel, then 7 miles down South Kaibab. I woke up the guys around 0400 hours and we got ready for a long day. Nick and I were able to leave our tents set up, and most of our heavy gear at camp, since we would be coming right back here tonight. Our packs had to weigh less than 5lbs each. I did not envy Ethan and Ryan as they had to carry everything out, but at least they were almost done.
We started around 0600, and right near the camp was the mighty Colorado River. We crossed the suspension bridge and went over the river. From here, the trail followed it for a bit before turning inland after Pipe Creek Beach. All the while, the sun was slowly starting to touch the tips on the cliffs around us. It was an incredible sight.
From Pipe Creek Beach to Havasu Gardens Campground, which was around 5 miles, the trail was mostly a gradual incline. We were hiking pretty quickly and when we reached the halfway point in terms of miles, I was beginning to wonder why everyone said this hike was so hard. I was about to learn the hard way.
Since we made good time, we took a very long break at Havasu Gardens, which was the first time we did not need to filter water. We drank a lot of it and ate some snacks to prepare for the final push. It was here when I picked up Ryan’s pack and found out how heavy it was.
The final 4.5 miles is where I was truly put in my place. With about 3,000 feet of elevation to go, each switchback absolutely killed me. Nick and I were ahead of Ryan and Ethan at this point, so when we reached 3 mile resthouse we took another long break to wait for them. When they arrived, Nick and I stayed with them a bit before pushing on. We told them we were going to probably just go for the top and wait for them at the trailhead. This would allow us to get a long break before heading down South Kaibab later that evening.
On our way up the last few miles We passed hundreds of tourists who were all either going down or up. Most were doing day hikes, but we saw a few with bigger packs who were either starting or ending their rim-to-rim adventure. I had never seen a trail so crowded.
At 1400 hours we did it. We climbed the final switchback and immediately sat down near the trailhead. I called my wife, took off my shoes, threw away my garbage, and bought a very expensive mediocre lunch from a nearby shop as we waited for Ethan and Ryan.
While waiting, thousands of people speaking dozens of different languages all walked by to get views of the canyon. It is easy to forget just how unique and special the Grand Canyon is. People travel from all over the world to see it. Two hours passed and Ethan and Ryan were still not there. Nick and I could not wait anymore. I texted Ethan and Ryan that we were taking the shuttle to South Kaibab trailhead, and sent the information on some of the hotels that sill had availability. I was sad we couldn’t celebrate them complete the Rim-Rim, but nothing could be done about it.
Nick and I took the blue and orange line shuttles from Bright Angel lodge to the South Kaibab Trailhead. We got water, and at 1645 hours, we set foot on the trail.
The South Kaibab Trail ended up being far and away, the most beautiful trail I have ever hiked. I felt so bad that Ethan and Ryan were missing out on this one. Going down past Ooh-Ahh Point, Cedar Ridge, and Skeleton Point was far and away the highlight of the trip. We had 360 degree views of the entire canyon at golden hour. When people talk about the Grand Canyon, the South Kaibab Trail is what my mind will immediately go to from now on.
Eventually the sun went down, and we had to switch to headlamps. Cose to the bottom, Nick yelled out “SNAKE!!!” I immediately yelped and jump as far as I could. Thankfully was a baby rattlesnake, I am grateful no one was around to hear me.
Darkness settled around us as we crossed the Black Suspension Bridge (aka the Kaibab Suspension Bridge) and went through the tunnel. We would catch glimpses of Bats flying past us. Bright Angel Campground was silent when we found our way back. Both our tents still right where we left them.
Day 3: September 4th, 2023
My alarm was set for 0400, but I woke up at 0330 and I couldn’t go back to sleep. Nick heard me getting my things together and joined me. After two days of hiking I was pretty tired.
We both were methodical that morning, we packed up quickly and set off down the trail. Not a word was spoken by either of us as we backtracked to ribbon falls junction. When we made it there, it was only 0600. We made it 4 miles in a little over an hour. Talk about efficient.
Nick and I continued to hike quickly back up North Kaibab, We had a long drive back to the south rim and then Phoenix so we did not take as much time enjoying the scenery as we did previously.sthouse, Nick was moving way quicker than I was, so I told him to go ahead and I would meet him at the top.
The last few miles going up North Kaibab Trail were just demoralizing, I had to break more than a few times before making it to the trailhead. The smell of mule manure was not making my ascent up the switchbacks any easier.
At 1230 hours, I met Nick at the trailhead and upon arriving to the car I threw my trekking poles and fell to the ground. I sat there on the warm concrete trying to contemplate what we had just accomplished. We went Rim-Rim-Rim through the freakin’ Grand Canyon!!! It was definitely the most satisfied I’ve been after a hike.
Part 3: Miscellaneous Details
Logistics:
This hike might be one of the few that is harder to plan for than it is to hike. It took years of meticulous planning to get permits and decide on the route. One of the main issues is that The North Rim is approximately 20+ miles from the South Rim via hiking, but it is approximately 200+ miles via driving. Because of this, you must either take multiple vehicles, get a shuttle. or hike to one side and then go back commonly known as the Rim-Rim-Rim. Nick and I opted for the last option. Below was our itinerary.
- Ethan, Ryan, Nick, and I flew into in Phoenix, and picked up rental car.
- Day 0: We all drove to the North Rim, and park our rental car there.
- Day 1: We all hiked down North Kaibab Trail to Bright Angel Campground.
- Day 2: We all hiked up Bright Angel Trail. Nick and I took a few hour break, then took the free South Rim shuttles to South Kaibab Trailhead. We then hiked down South Kaibab back to Bright Angel Campground. Ethan and Ryan stayed at the South Rim as they were only doing the Rim-Rim hike.
- Day 3: Hiked up North Kaibab Trail from bright Angel Campground to North Rim, and picked up the vehicle. We then drove back down to the South Rim picked up Ethan and Ryan, and went back to Phoenix.
Both rims of Grand canyon are pretty remote, so getting to them isn’t a piece of cake either. I have listed below the closest airports you could potentially use to visit the national park.
-Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (PHX): Most Grand Canyon visitors fly into this one because it is the closest major international airport to the South Rim. It is approximately 231 miles to the South Rim; a 4 hour drive. It is approximately 351 miles to the North Rim; a 5 hour 45 minute drive.
-Las Vegas McCarran International Airport, Nevada (LAS): This is probably the second best option for flying into the South Rim, but it might be the best if you are just going to the North Rim. It is equidistant to both the North Rim and South Rim. It is approximately 275 miles; a 4 hour 30 minute drive.
-Flagstaff Pulliam Airport (FLG): This is the closest small commercial airport to the South Rim. If you can afford it, this would be the ideal airport to fly into due to its proximity to the canyon. It is approximately 91 miles; a 1 hour 30 minute drive to the South Rim. It is approximately 212 miles from the North Rim; a 3 hour 30 minute drive.
Water:
With the Canyon being so hot, water is extremely important while hiking. Luckily, aside from the South Kaibab Trail, water sources are all along the route. The Bright Angel creek flows alongside the entire North Kaibab Trail from Manzanita Rest House to Phantom Ranch. In addition, there is potable water at designated stops along the trail. In the heat of the summer, it is also recommended to soak your clothing in the water as well to help cool off. We did that a few times on our hike. Be sure to check this page for water updates.
Author’s Note: During our hike the water pipeline was damaged so from we had to filter all water from the spigots on the north side of the canyon all the way to Phantom Ranch.
Navigation:
This hike is very easy to navigate. There are signs along the way, the trail gets an immense amount of traffic, and there are not a whole lot of intersecting trails. The only part that was confusing was getting to Ribbon Falls, which requires a little bit of route finding,
Difficulty:
While the trail itself isn’t technical, and they are all well-maintained, this hike is up there for the most difficult I have done. I remember getting to Bright Angel Campground after the first day thinking “wow, this isn’t so bad actually.” Boy was I wrong. The trails on the canyon floor are pretty flat and make for an easy walk, but the climbs at Bright Angel and North Rim were BRUTAL! The trickiest thing about this hike is the “reverse” nature of the climbing. Most hikes have you climb up then descend. Whereas in the Grand Canyon, you descend, and then the toughest part of the hike, the steep climb out, is at the end. I remember finishing at Bright Angel Trailhead and dreading that I would have to go all the way back in at up to the North Rim.
Sun Protection/Heat Concern:
During the summer, temps at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon can easily reach well over 110F. Pay attention for excessive heat warnings, as it It can be extremely dangerous to attempt the Rim-to-Rim hike when it is that hot. The hottest section is “The Box,” between Ribbon Falls and Phantom Ranch. In this area, the canyon walls close in on you and reflect all the heat right onto you, and and you want to avoid being in that area during the hottest part of the day (generally 10am-4pm). Our group was lucky, as it was unseasonably cool for us.
Camping/Lodging options:
This is going to be a bit more extensive than usual just because of the unique nature of this hike. I am going to try and be as descriptive as possible, as reservations for this trip are hard to get, takes months to secure and plan, and can ruin your hike if you aren’t careful enough. I will detail all the options below if you want to tackle a R-R or R-R-R hike.
-North Rim and South Rim Campgrounds: There are two main camping options at the top of each rim. The North Rim Campground and the Mather Campground at the South Rim. Reservations are required for each, and can be made 6 months in advance. They are much easier to secure than the canyon corridor campgrounds. Both are close to the Rim trails leading into the canyon, and inexpensive ($18 as of September 2023). Keep in mind. They are at the top of the rims and not in the canyon. These are solid options for before or after your hike. We stayed at the North Rim Campground the night before our trek. They have showers, laundry, potable water, and are close to stores. On the south rim, a free shuttle will also stop there that can take you to the trailheads.
Author’s Note: the North Rim Campground is only available from May 15th through October 15th each year due to snow and inclement weather. Some years it can even be later. In addition, between December 1, and May 14, North Rim roads are closed to all vehicles and no services are available.
-North Rim and South Rim Hotels: If money isn’t a concern, I would absolutely recommend staying at one of the many hotels at the North and South Rim. The north has the Kaibab Lodge and the North Rim Lodge. Both of these locations aren’t exactly what I would call within walking distance to the trail, but the Kaibab Lodge does run a shuttle that will take you to both hotels and the trailhead. The south has the Bright Angel Lodge, Yavapai lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, Maswick Lodge, Kachina Lodge, and the famous El Tovar Hotel. All of these lodges are near enough to the previously mentioned free shuttle and walking distance to trailheads. Most have restaurant options as well. They can be hard to book, but after Ethan and Ryan completed the R-R, they were able to find a last minute room at Maswick on Labor Day Weekend in 2023.
-In-Corridor Campgrounds: There are three campgrounds (Cottonwood, Bright Angel, and Havasu Gardens) that you will need backcountry permits for to stay in. If you are doing a R-R or R-R-R, and don’t want to have to complete it in one day, it is imperative you secure a permit for one of them. To make matters more complicated, where most National Parks have an online permitting system, the Grand Canyon is still old-school. As of September 2023 you must fax or mail in a printed form requesting the dates and sites four months before your start date, and wait three weeks for a response. You can also show up at the Backcountry Office (in person) and request a last-minute permit. If you don’t get a spot, you get put on a waitlist with better odds every day you are on it.
They are finally moving to an online reservation process in 2024, so the paragraph above might not be applicable in the future.
Author’s note: After our Phantom Ranch reservations got cancelled, Nick was somehow able to secure two last minute permits for 2 consecutive nights at Bright Angel Campground over the phone. I still do not know how he accomplished this as we were told by the NPS multiple times, that they don’t allow you to reserve one that way. Whether it was sorcery, a rookie ranger who also didn’t know the process, or maybe pity, Nick faxed in the payment, got an email confirmation, and the day before our hike we went to backcountry information center to pick up our permits. Shouts to Nick. He saved the trip.
-Phantom Ranch: Here is where I am going to talk about the elusive Phantom Ranch. It is one of the hardest hotel reservations to secure in America. You have to go on a lottery system over 15 months in advance, or get lucky and quickly snag an open day if someone cancels their reservation. Some go decades without getting one. If you are able to secure one, then your R-R or R-R-R can be more manageable, broken up into multiple days, without having to carry camping gear.
The Ranch also offers cooked breakfasts, dinners, and hiker lunches. they serve beer, wine, lemonade and have an assortment of other items like medicine, souvenirs, etc. at their canteen. Ethan, Ryan, Nick and I originally had 2 nights booked at the Phantom Ranch, but approximately 1 week before our hike the water pipeline was damaged and there was E.coli in the water. This closed the ranch for our stay.
Story time: On January 17th 2023, the Phantom Ranch did something they never do. They opened their website at midnight for the rest of 2023 to book a room. As you can guess, when the time came, it promptly crashed. I was on the website from midnight until 0500 refreshing the page, until I was able to secure a two night reservation. At one point, I was literally rocking my 3 month old back to sleep in one arm while my computer was in the other. This is why it was so frustrating to have our stay cancelled. Luckily, I was able to reschedule our Phantom Ranch stay for late May 2024. They offered a refund, but Ethan, Ryan, Nick, and I agreed to come back in May to fulfill our reservation.
Wildlife:
The Grand Canyon a desert environment that has thousands of species of creatures. Elk, bison, bighorn sheep, bats, and rock squirrels, mountain lions, rattlesnakes, scorpions, tarantulas, tarantula hawks, reptiles, amphibians, butterflies and many more make their home here. Nick and I did encounter a baby rattlesnake directly on the South Kaibab Trail. Insects were not an issue for our hike On the 2nd morning, I woke up from camp and left foot started to itch. I turned on my headlamp and it turns out there were a few red ants that were biting me. Watch your feet if you wear flip-flops, and shake your footwear before wearing them again.
Last Word
Hiking the Grand Canyon was one of the most profound journeys I have undertaken. It is a traverse through millions of years of geological history, and some of the most awe-inspiring landscapes this planet has to offer. Its one of the few places I’ve been to that makes me speechless. It is impossible to comprehend the scale even after having just done it. I’m not much of a spiritual person, but I must admit there is something about the Grand Canyon that inspires one’s heart and soul.
Despite all the time, sweat, and pain it took to complete, I can confidently say this was the most rewarding hike I have ever done. The Grand Canyon has left an indelible mark on me, and I cannot wait to comeback in May to get to experience the Phantom Ranch.
Thank you for reading, I know this was a long one. If you liked what you read, you can check out my other stuff here.